Winterizing an outdoor shower before the first hard freeze prevents burst pipes, damaged fixtures, and costly spring repairs. The process takes under an hour and costs nothing if you already have the right valves in place. This guide covers the complete winterization checklist for both cold-only and hot-and-cold outdoor showers.
When to Winterize
Winterize your outdoor shower when sustained overnight temperatures below 28°F are forecast — typically 2–4 weeks before your first historical hard freeze date. For USDA zones 5 and colder, that means mid-October through early November. Do not wait for the first freeze. Water in supply lines can freeze solid in 6–8 hours at 20°F.
Step 1: Shut Off the Supply Valve
Locate the dedicated shutoff valve for the outdoor shower supply line — ideally inside the house where it stays above freezing. Turn it fully clockwise to close. If your shower taps directly off a hose bib or exterior shutoff, close that valve instead.
Step 2: Open the Shower Valves
Open both the hot and cold handles at the shower mixing valve fully. This releases water pressure and allows air into the lines so residual water can drain out by gravity. Leave handles open throughout the winterization process.
Step 3: Drain the Supply Lines
Open the drain valve at the lowest point of the supply run. Water should flow freely. If your installation has proper slope (¼" per foot minimum toward the drain point), the lines will empty within a few minutes. Watch for flow to stop completely before proceeding. See the plumbing guide for drain valve installation details.
Step 4: Blow Out Any Remaining Water
For longer supply runs, residual water can pool in low spots. Use a small air compressor set to 30 PSI to blow out lines through the shower valve. Open each valve individually and blow for 30 seconds. This is especially important for hot water loops that may have check valves limiting gravity drainage.
Step 5: Remove and Store Fixtures
Unscrew the showerhead and any handheld wand and store indoors. Even stainless fixtures degrade faster when exposed to freeze-thaw cycles. If your shower enclosure has a door, prop it open to prevent moisture buildup over winter.
Step 6: Protect Exposed Pipe and Valve Bodies
Wrap any exposed supply pipe above ground with ¾-inch foam pipe insulation secured with UV-resistant tape. Wrap the mixing valve body with insulation foam or a freeze-protection cover rated to –20°F. This is insurance — properly drained lines should not freeze — but it adds a buffer on unexpectedly cold nights.
Frequently Asked Questions
- What temperature will outdoor shower pipes freeze at?
- Water in uninsulated pipes begins to freeze when ambient temperature drops below 28°F for 6+ hours. Insulated pipes and pipes with running water can withstand colder temperatures temporarily, but any standing water in outdoor lines is at risk below freezing.
- Do I need to blow out the lines, or is draining enough?
- For most installations with proper slope and drain valves, gravity draining is sufficient. Blowing out is useful for lines with flat sections or check valves that prevent gravity drainage.
- Can I leave my outdoor shower connected in winter?
- Only if you live in a climate where temperatures stay above 28°F year-round (zones 9–13). For zones 8 and colder, winterizing is necessary to prevent damage.
- When can I reconnect my outdoor shower in spring?
- Wait until nighttime temperatures are consistently above 32°F before turning the supply back on. Inspect all fittings and the mixing valve for cracks before pressurizing.