A freestanding shower post is the cleanest outdoor shower solution for yards without an adjacent wall to mount to. When it's done well, the post looks like a permanent architectural element — water lines hidden inside, no exposed plumbing, level and plumb in all directions. Here's exactly how to do it.
What You'll Need
Materials: 4×4 or 6×6 cedar or pressure-treated post (10 ft for a standard installation), two 1/2-inch copper or PEX supply lines, compression fittings or SharkBite connectors, concrete (two 50-lb bags), shower head, shutoff valves, exterior-rated pipe insulation. Tools: post hole digger or rented auger, level, drill with long 3/4-inch bit, pipe cutter, adjustable wrench, concrete mixing tub.
Digging and Setting the Post
Mark the post location with a stake. Dig a hole 12 inches in diameter and at minimum 24 inches deep — 36 inches in freeze-thaw climates. The post should extend 7 ft above grade for comfortable showering clearance. Mix concrete per package instructions (not too wet), pour 6 inches into the hole, set the post, check plumb on two faces with a level, then fill the hole with concrete. Use bracing to hold the post plumb while the concrete cures — minimum 24 hours before removing braces. For more project guides, visit DIY projects.
Running the Supply Lines Through the Post
Drill a 3/4-inch hole through the bottom of the post before it's set, angled upward slightly toward the shower side. Feed 1/2-inch PEX (flexible and easy to route) from the bottom hole up through the post interior to the shower head location. For hot and cold supply, run two lines. The bottom of the post should have a removable access panel or elbow fittings connected to your main supply lines via SharkBite fittings — no soldering required.
Connecting to the Water Supply
Run supply lines from the nearest exterior hose bib or an independent shutoff in the house. For a cold-water-only setup, a single 1/2-inch line is sufficient. For hot and cold, you'll need two lines to the post base plus a mixing valve mounted at the shower head or inside the post. Important: install a vacuum breaker on all outdoor shower connections to prevent backflow into the potable water supply. A full outdoor outdoor shower installation guide covers shutoff and winterization options.
Attaching the Shower Head and Finishing
Mount a shower arm at 7 ft height — drill a clean exit hole through the post, apply plumber's putty or silicone at the exit point, and thread on the shower arm. A standard 1/2-inch threaded connection works for virtually all shower heads. Wrap exposed copper or PEX at the base with exterior-rated foam pipe insulation ($0.50/ft) before winter. Add a simple cedar or composite cap to the top of the post for a finished look.
Frequently Asked Questions
- How deep should an outdoor shower post be set?
- Minimum 24 inches in mild climates, 36 inches in freeze-thaw zones. Shallower posts heave and shift over time.
- Can I use a metal post?
- Yes — galvanized steel pipe (schedule 40) or square steel tube work well and can serve as the supply line conduit directly. Powder-coat for weather resistance.
- How do I winterize an outdoor shower post?
- Install a shutoff valve inside on the supply line. In fall, close the shutoff, open outdoor valves to drain, and blow out the lines with compressed air. Store the shower head indoors.
- What post size should I use?
- A 4×4 is structurally sufficient for a single head. A 6×6 is easier to route two supply lines through and looks more substantial. Use cedar, redwood, or ground-contact-rated pressure-treated lumber.