Growing your own herbs is the single fastest way to improve your cooking. Not because home-grown herbs are magically superior to store-bought — although they often are — but because having herbs 30 seconds away from your cutting board changes how often you use them. A $3 plastic clamshell of basil from the grocery store sits in the fridge, wilts, and gets thrown out. A basil plant on the windowsill or in the garden gets pinched every time you make pasta, scramble eggs, or slice a tomato. The access changes the habit, and the habit changes the food.
I grow between 15 and 20 herbs every season, some in raised beds, some in containers on the patio, and a few on the kitchen windowsill year-round. After a decade of experimenting, I know which ones thrive with neglect, which need coddling, which do best in the ground, and which are happier in pots. Our edible gardening guides cover everything from vegetable spacing to succession planting, and herbs fit into every garden plan — they take minimal space, attract beneficial insects, and give you something to harvest within weeks of planting.
Here are twenty herbs every kitchen gardener should know, with the specific growing details that actually matter.
Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
Growing conditions: Full sun (6-8 hours), warm soil above 60°F, consistent moisture. Basil is a warm-season annual that dies at the first hint of frost. Do not rush transplanting — wait until nighttime temperatures are reliably above 55°F. Plant in rich, well-drained soil amended with compost. Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart for airflow, which reduces downy mildew risk.
Harvest timing: Begin harvesting when plants have at least 6 sets of true leaves. Pinch stems just above a leaf node — this encourages branching and prevents the plant from bolting to flower. Once basil flowers, the leaves become bitter. Regular harvesting (every 5-7 days during peak growth) keeps plants productive for the entire summer.
Culinary uses: Caprese salad, pesto, pasta sauce, Thai curries (Thai basil), fresh on pizza, in vinaigrettes. Add fresh basil at the end of cooking; heat destroys the volatile oils that give basil its flavour.
Companion planting: Excellent companion for tomatoes and peppers. May repel aphids and whiteflies. Avoid planting near sage, which prefers drier conditions.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows outdoors in summer, struggles indoors unless you have a very sunny south-facing window or grow lights providing 10+ hours of light. Indoor basil tends to be leggy and sparse. Grow it outside for the best results.
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
Growing conditions: Full sun to partial shade, moist soil, zones 2-11 as a biennial (grows foliage the first year, flowers and dies the second). Slow to germinate — seeds take 14-28 days. Soaking seeds overnight speeds germination slightly. Plant in spring after the last frost or start indoors 8-10 weeks before transplanting.
Harvest timing: Cut outer stems at the base when the plant has at least 8-10 stems. Always leave the inner growth to continue producing. Flat-leaf (Italian) parsley has stronger flavour than curly parsley. Both produce abundantly from a single planting through the entire growing season.
Culinary uses: Tabbouleh, chimichurri, gremolata, stocks, sauces, garnish. Flat-leaf parsley is preferred for cooking; curly parsley is traditional for garnish and adds a fresh crunch to salads.
Companion planting: Good companion for tomatoes, asparagus, and roses. Parsley attracts beneficial hoverflies that prey on aphids.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows well in both settings. Indoor parsley needs a bright window and consistent moisture. It is one of the easier herbs to maintain on a windowsill year-round.
Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum)
Growing conditions: Full sun in cool weather, partial shade in summer heat. Cilantro bolts (goes to seed) quickly in temperatures above 80°F. The best strategy is succession sowing: plant a small batch every 2-3 weeks from early spring through fall to maintain a steady supply. Prefers moist, well-drained soil. Direct sow — cilantro has a taproot and dislikes transplanting.
Harvest timing: Begin cutting leaves when plants are 6 inches tall. Harvest entire stems from the outside of the plant. Once flower stalks appear, leaf production stops and flavour changes. Let a few plants bolt to produce coriander seeds (the dried seeds are a different spice entirely) and to self-sow for future crops.
Culinary uses: Salsa, guacamole, Thai dishes, Indian chutneys, Vietnamese pho, tacos. Cilantro is one of the most divisive herbs — roughly 10-15% of people perceive it as soapy due to a genetic trait. If you are in that group, try substituting culantro (Eryngium foetidum) or Thai basil.
Companion planting: Attracts beneficial insects including lacewings and parasitic wasps. Good companion for leafy greens and legumes.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows adequately indoors on a bright windowsill but bolts even faster in the warm, dry air of most homes. Outdoor growing with shade cloth in summer produces the best yields.
Mint (Mentha spp.)
Growing conditions: Partial shade to full sun, consistently moist soil. Mint is aggressively spreading — always grow it in a container or a bed with buried root barriers (12 inches deep minimum). Left unchecked in open ground, mint will colonize your entire garden within two seasons. Peppermint, spearmint, and chocolate mint are the most popular culinary varieties. Hardy in zones 3-11.
Harvest timing: Cut stems freely once the plant is 8 inches tall. Mint produces most vigorously if harvested regularly. Cut stems just above a pair of leaves to promote branching. For the most intense flavour, harvest just before the plant flowers. Mint can be harvested continuously from spring through fall.
Culinary uses: Mojitos, mint tea, tabbouleh, lamb dishes, ice cream, chocolate desserts, fruit salads. Fresh mint is worlds apart from dried — the menthol oils are volatile and lose potency quickly after drying.
Companion planting: Deters cabbage moths and aphids. Because it must be contained, pair it in pots next to brassicas rather than planting directly in the same bed.
Indoor vs outdoor: Excellent indoors in a pot on a bright windowsill. Mint tolerates lower light than most herbs and stays productive with minimal care. Keep the soil moist and it will reward you with year-round harvests.
Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus)
Growing conditions: Full sun, well-drained soil, minimal water once established. Rosemary is a Mediterranean native that thrives on neglect in warm climates. In zones 7-10, it is an evergreen perennial that can grow into a large shrub (3-5 feet tall). In colder zones, grow it in a pot and bring it indoors for winter. Rosemary's number one killer is overwatering — especially in heavy clay soil. Plant in raised beds or containers with excellent drainage.
Harvest timing: Snip sprigs any time the plant is actively growing. For the strongest flavour, harvest in the morning after the dew dries. The woody stems lower on the plant can be used as skewers for grilling — strip the leaves from the bottom 6 inches, thread meat or vegetables onto the stem, and grill. The rosemary flavours the food from the inside.
Culinary uses: Roasted potatoes, focaccia, lamb, chicken, bread, olive oil infusions, compound butter. Rosemary holds its flavour well during cooking, unlike basil, so add it early in the cooking process.
Companion planting: Excellent companion for beans, brassicas, and carrots. The strong scent deters carrot fly and cabbage moth. Avoid planting near tomatoes — they prefer different moisture levels.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows outdoors year-round in mild climates. Indoors, rosemary is demanding — it needs 6+ hours of direct sun, cool temperatures (60-65°F), good air circulation, and infrequent watering. It is one of the harder herbs to keep alive on a windowsill, but a south-facing window in a cool room can work.
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
Growing conditions: Full sun, lean well-drained soil, drought-tolerant once established. Thyme actually produces more flavourful leaves in poor soil — rich, heavily amended beds produce lush growth with diluted essential oils. A 12-inch pot with basic potting mix is ideal. Hardy perennial in zones 5-9. Common thyme, lemon thyme, and creeping thyme are the most useful varieties.
Harvest timing: Snip sprigs as needed throughout the growing season. For drying, harvest just before the plant flowers when oil concentration is highest. Thyme dries better than almost any other herb — the dried leaves retain excellent flavour for 6-12 months stored in a sealed jar away from light.
Culinary uses: Roasted vegetables, soups, stews, stocks, poultry seasoning, bouquet garni, herbes de Provence. Lemon thyme is especially good with fish and in tea.
Companion planting: Benefits nearly every vegetable. Deters cabbage worms, corn earworms, and whiteflies. Plant it as a border around vegetable beds.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows well indoors with strong light. Thyme tolerates the dry air of heated homes better than most herbs. Water sparingly — thyme in a pot indoors is far more likely to die from overwatering than underwatering.
Sage (Salvia officinalis)
Growing conditions: Full sun, well-drained soil, moderate water. Sage is a woody perennial in zones 4-8 that grows into a small shrub 18-24 inches tall and wide. It prefers slightly alkaline soil and does not appreciate heavy mulching around the base — good air circulation at soil level prevents the crown rot that kills sage in humid climates. Plant in a raised bed or on a slight slope for drainage.
Harvest timing: Pick individual leaves or snip stem tips as needed. Sage leaves are tough enough to handle early addition in cooking without wilting away. For drying, harvest before flowering. Fresh sage has a slightly different character than dried — fresh is brighter and more peppery, dried is more concentrated and earthy. Both are useful.
Culinary uses: Thanksgiving stuffing, brown butter pasta, saltimbocca, sausage seasoning, bean dishes, fried sage leaves as a garnish. Sage is one of the few herbs that is arguably better cooked than raw — it mellows and deepens with heat.
Companion planting: Good companion for brassicas, carrots, and strawberries. Deters cabbage moth and carrot fly. Avoid planting near cucumbers or rue.
Indoor vs outdoor: Best grown outdoors. Sage struggles indoors due to its need for strong sun, good air circulation, and dry conditions. If you bring a potted sage inside for winter, give it the sunniest, coolest, driest spot you have.
Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
Growing conditions: Full sun to partial shade, moist rich soil. Chives are one of the easiest herbs to grow — they are cold-hardy perennials (zones 3-9), nearly pest-free, and multiply readily into thick clumps. Plant from seed or divisions in spring. Space clumps 8-12 inches apart. They will fill in within two seasons.
Harvest timing: Cut leaves with scissors to 2 inches above the soil. New growth emerges quickly. The purple flowers are edible and make a beautiful garnish — they taste like mild onion with a floral note. Divide clumps every 3-4 years when they become overcrowded and production slows.
Culinary uses: Baked potatoes, cream cheese, eggs, salads, soups, compound butter. Chives are best used raw or added at the very end of cooking — heat diminishes their delicate onion flavour.
Companion planting: Good companion for carrots, tomatoes, and roses. The allium scent deters aphids and Japanese beetles.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows well in both. Indoor chives need a bright window and regular watering. They go dormant in winter even indoors, so do not panic if they die back — they will return in spring.
Oregano (Origanum vulgare)
Growing conditions: Full sun, lean well-drained soil. Like thyme, oregano produces more flavourful leaves in average-to-poor soil. Rich soil encourages leafy growth with reduced essential oil content. Greek oregano has the strongest culinary flavour — common oregano is milder. Hardy perennial in zones 5-10. Spreads steadily and can become aggressive; container growing keeps it in check.
Harvest timing: Harvest just before flowers open for peak flavour. Cut stems back to 4 inches above the soil and the plant will regenerate quickly. Oregano is one of the rare herbs that is actually more flavourful dried than fresh — the drying process concentrates the essential oils.
Culinary uses: Pizza sauce, pasta, Greek salads, grilled meats, roasted vegetables, bean dishes, chimichurri (Mexican oregano). It is the defining herb of Italian-American and Greek cooking.
Companion planting: Benefits peppers, tomatoes, and squash. The flowers attract pollinators and beneficial predatory insects.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows acceptably indoors with very strong light. Outdoor growing produces markedly superior flavour and yield.
Dill (Anethum graveolens)
Growing conditions: Full sun, well-drained soil, moderate moisture. Dill is a cool-season annual that bolts quickly in summer heat. Sow directly in the garden in early spring or late summer — dill dislikes transplanting because of its long taproot. Space plants 12 inches apart. It grows tall (2-4 feet) and may need staking in windy locations.
Harvest timing: Snip feathery leaves (dill weed) as soon as the plant is 8 inches tall. For dill seed, let the flower heads mature until the seeds turn brown, then cut the heads and shake into a paper bag. Dill self-sows prolifically — let a few plants go to seed and you will have volunteer dill for years.
Culinary uses: Pickles, salmon, potato salad, tzatziki, Scandinavian cuisine, egg dishes, cucumber salads. Dill weed (leaves) and dill seed have distinctly different flavours — the seeds are more pungent and caraway-like.
Companion planting: Attracts swallowtail butterfly caterpillars (plant extra if you want to share). Good companion for lettuce, onions, and cucumbers. Avoid planting near carrots — they can cross-pollinate.
Indoor vs outdoor: Poorly suited for indoors due to height, taproot, and light requirements. Grow dill outdoors exclusively.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
Growing conditions: Full sun, excellent drainage, lean soil, minimal water. English lavender (L. angustifolia) is the hardiest and best for culinary use (zones 5-8). French and Spanish lavenders are less cold-hardy but work in zones 7-10. Lavender dies from wet feet faster than from cold — raised beds and sandy or gravelly soil are essential in humid climates. Space plants 18-24 inches apart for air circulation.
Harvest timing: Cut flower stems when about half the buds on each spike have opened. Harvest in the morning after dew dries for the highest oil content. Tie stems in small bundles and hang upside down to dry. Dried lavender buds retain fragrance and flavour for 6-12 months.
Culinary uses: Herbes de Provence, lavender shortbread, lavender lemonade, infused honey, ice cream. Use sparingly — culinary lavender is potent and can taste soapy in excess. Start with 1/4 teaspoon dried buds per recipe and adjust.
Companion planting: Excellent with roses, thyme, and oregano. Repels fleas, moths, and mosquitoes. Attracts pollinators heavily.
Indoor vs outdoor: Extremely difficult indoors. Lavender needs intense sun, cool temperatures, and perfect drainage. Grow outdoors if at all possible.
Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus)
Growing conditions: Full sun, well-drained soil, moderate water. French tarragon (the culinary variety) does not produce viable seed — it must be grown from cuttings or divisions. Avoid "tarragon" seed sold in packets; that is Russian tarragon, which has almost no culinary flavour. Hardy in zones 4-8. Plants grow 18-24 inches tall and should be divided every 3-4 years to maintain vigour.
Harvest timing: Snip stem tips throughout the growing season. The flavour is best in spring and early summer before the plant flowers. Tarragon does not dry well — it loses most of its distinctive anise flavour. Preserve it in vinegar (tarragon vinegar) or freeze stems in olive oil using ice cube trays.
Culinary uses: Bearnaise sauce, chicken tarragon, fines herbes, French vinaigrettes, egg dishes, compound butter, cream sauces. Tarragon is the defining herb of classical French cooking.
Companion planting: Generally a loner — tarragon inhibits the growth of some nearby plants. Give it its own pot or a dedicated section of the herb bed.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows tolerably indoors in a sunny window. French tarragon goes dormant in winter even indoors; let it rest and resume watering in spring when new growth appears.
Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis)
Growing conditions: Full sun to partial shade, well-drained soil. Bay laurel is a Mediterranean evergreen tree that can grow 30-60 feet in its native climate but is easily kept to 4-8 feet in a large pot. Hardy outdoors only in zones 8-10. In colder zones, grow in a container and overwinter indoors in a cool, bright room.
Harvest timing: Pick individual leaves any time. Older, larger leaves have stronger flavour than young leaves. Fresh bay leaves have a more nuanced flavour than dried, but dried bay leaves are perfectly useful and store for 1-2 years. To dry, lay leaves flat on a tray in a warm, dry room for 2 weeks.
Culinary uses: Soups, stews, stocks, braises, rice, beans, poaching liquid. Bay is a background herb — it adds depth and complexity without a strong identifiable flavour. Always remove whole leaves before serving.
Companion planting: Bay repels pantry moths and weevils. In container growing, it is typically grown solo due to its size.
Indoor vs outdoor: Excellent indoor tree in a large pot (12-16 inch diameter minimum). Bay laurel tolerates indoor conditions better than most Mediterranean herbs because it handles lower light levels. Water when the top inch of soil dries.
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus)
Growing conditions: Full sun, rich moist soil, heat-loving. Lemongrass is a tropical grass hardy only in zones 9-11. In colder zones, grow in a large pot (14 inches minimum) and bring indoors before frost. It grows fast in warm weather — a single stalk can multiply into a clump of 10-15 stalks in one growing season. Plant in the warmest, most sheltered spot in your garden.
Harvest timing: Harvest outer stalks when they are at least 12 inches tall and 1/2 inch thick at the base. Cut or snap them at soil level. The usable portion is the lower 4-6 inches of the stalk — the tender white and pale green interior. Peel away the tough outer layers to reach the fragrant core.
Culinary uses: Thai soups (tom yum, tom kha), curries, stir-fries, tea, marinades. The intense lemon-citrus flavour is released by bruising, slicing, or pounding the stalk. Fresh lemongrass is vastly superior to dried or powdered.
Companion planting: Repels mosquitoes due to its citronella content. Plant near outdoor seating areas for a natural deterrent.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows indoors in a large pot with very bright light. Reduce watering in winter and expect slower growth, but lemongrass survives indoors reasonably well.
Marjoram (Origanum majorana)
Growing conditions: Full sun, well-drained soil, moderate water. Often confused with oregano (same genus), marjoram has a sweeter, more delicate flavour. It is a tender perennial (zones 9-10) grown as an annual in most climates. Start from seed indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost or buy transplants. Space 8-10 inches apart.
Harvest timing: Cut stems just before or as flowers open. Marjoram retains good flavour when dried — hang bundles upside down in a warm, dark room until crisp. Fresh marjoram is more delicate and floral than dried.
Culinary uses: German, Austrian, and Middle Eastern cooking. Sausage seasoning, potato dishes, bean soups, roasted vegetables, herbed butter. Add at the end of cooking to preserve its gentle flavour.
Companion planting: Good companion for most vegetables. Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows well indoors on a sunny windowsill. Less demanding than rosemary or lavender. One of the better herbs for year-round indoor growing. Our white oak herb marker set includes marjoram's close cousin oregano — labelling your herb garden keeps similar-looking herbs from getting confused, especially in the early growth stages when oregano, marjoram, and thyme seedlings look nearly identical.
Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
Growing conditions: Full sun, well-drained soil, moderate water. Herb fennel (grown for leaves and seeds) is different from bulb fennel (grown for the swollen base). Herb fennel is a perennial in zones 6-10 and can grow 4-5 feet tall with feathery foliage. Direct sow in spring — it dislikes transplanting. Self-sows freely in mild climates.
Harvest timing: Snip feathery fronds any time for fresh use. For fennel seed, let flower heads mature to brown, then cut and dry. The pollen (collected by shaking flower heads into a bag) is a gourmet seasoning with concentrated fennel flavour.
Culinary uses: Italian sausage, fish dishes, roasted pork, salads, tea, pickles. Fennel fronds make a beautiful, aromatic garnish. The seeds are essential in Indian cooking (panch phoran spice blend).
Companion planting: Fennel is allelopathic — it inhibits the growth of many garden plants, especially tomatoes, peppers, and beans. Grow it separately from the vegetable garden in its own bed or large container.
Indoor vs outdoor: Too large and sun-demanding for indoor growing. Grow outdoors only.
Sorrel (Rumex acetosa)
Growing conditions: Full sun to partial shade, moist rich soil. Sorrel is a cold-hardy perennial (zones 3-9) that provides tangy, lemony leaves from early spring through fall. It is one of the first herbs to emerge each spring. Plant from seed or divisions. It prefers consistent moisture and tolerates more shade than most herbs.
Harvest timing: Pick individual leaves from the outside of the clump when they are 4-6 inches long. Young leaves are most tender and least bitter. Remove flower stalks to prolong leaf production. In hot summer weather, sorrel leaves become more bitter — harvest less in midsummer and enjoy the spring and fall harvests.
Culinary uses: French sorrel soup (soupe a l'oseille), salads, sauces for fish, mixed into cream cheese, wilted like spinach. The lemony tang adds brightness to any dish where you would normally add lemon juice.
Companion planting: Good companion for strawberries and most vegetables. Provides ground cover that suppresses weeds around taller plants.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows adequately indoors but prefers outdoor conditions. If growing indoors, use a deep pot (sorrel has a long taproot) and provide bright indirect light.
Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana)
Growing conditions: Full sun, moist well-drained soil, warm temperatures. Stevia is a tender perennial (zones 9-11) grown as an annual in most climates. The leaves are intensely sweet — 30 to 40 times sweeter than sugar — with zero calories. Start from transplants rather than seed (germination is unreliable). Plant after all frost danger has passed in rich, well-drained soil.
Harvest timing: Pick individual leaves throughout the season. For a bulk harvest, cut the entire plant back to 6 inches before it flowers — flowering reduces the sweetness of the leaves. Dry harvested leaves in a dehydrator or oven at the lowest setting, then crush into a green powder.
Culinary uses: Tea sweetener, smoothies, baking (with adjustments — stevia does not provide the bulk of sugar). Fresh leaves can be muddled into drinks or steeped in hot water. A single leaf sweetens a cup of tea.
Companion planting: No significant companion planting effects noted. Grows well alongside other warm-season herbs like basil and lemongrass.
Indoor vs outdoor: Grows indoors under grow lights but does not thrive on a windowsill alone. Outdoor growing in summer produces significantly better yields. Our cedar window herb box is sized for the herbs that do well indoors — mint, parsley, chives, and thyme — while stevia and basil are better reserved for outdoor beds.
Lovage (Levisticum officinale)
Growing conditions: Full sun to partial shade, rich moist soil. Lovage is a massive perennial (zones 3-8) that can grow 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide at maturity. One plant provides enough leaves, stems, and seeds for an entire household. It tastes like a strong, concentrated celery with parsley notes. Plant from seed or a division in a permanent location — it comes back reliably for 8-10 years.
Harvest timing: Pick young leaves from spring through midsummer for the mildest flavour. The hollow stems can be used as straws for Bloody Marys and savoury cocktails — they flavour the drink as you sip. Seeds are used as a spice (similar to celery seed but more complex). Harvest seeds when they turn brown on the plant.
Culinary uses: Stocks, soups, potato dishes, salads, compound butter. Use lovage wherever you would use celery but want a more assertive, herbal flavour. A few leaves in a pot of chicken stock transform it.
Companion planting: Improves the growth and flavour of most vegetables. Attracts beneficial parasitic wasps. Its height provides light shade for lettuce and other greens in summer.
Indoor vs outdoor: Far too large for indoor growing. Grow outdoors in a dedicated, permanent spot.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the easiest herbs to grow for a complete beginner?
Start with chives, mint (in a pot), basil, and parsley. These four herbs are forgiving of mistakes, produce abundantly, and cover a wide range of culinary uses. Chives and mint are nearly indestructible perennials. Basil and parsley are annuals or biennials that grow quickly from transplants and give you harvests within weeks. Once you are comfortable with these, add thyme, rosemary, and oregano for a comprehensive kitchen herb collection.
Can I grow herbs indoors year-round?
Some herbs grow well indoors year-round: mint, parsley, chives, thyme, bay laurel, and lemongrass. Others struggle without supplemental lighting: basil, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and sage. The limiting factor indoors is almost always light — most kitchen windows provide 2-4 hours of direct sun, and most herbs need 6-8. A simple LED grow light running 12-14 hours per day solves this completely and costs less than $30 per year in electricity.
How do I preserve herbs I cannot use fresh?
Drying works best for oregano, thyme, rosemary, sage, bay, lavender, and marjoram — all Mediterranean herbs with low moisture content. Freezing works best for basil, parsley, cilantro, dill, chives, and tarragon — high-moisture herbs that lose flavour when dried. The best freezing method is chopping the herbs, packing them into ice cube trays, covering with olive oil or water, and freezing. Pop out cubes as needed and drop directly into cooking.
Why do my herbs keep dying on the windowsill?
The three most common causes are: insufficient light (most windowsills do not provide the 6-8 hours of direct sun that herbs need), overwatering (herbs in indoor pots with saucers sit in wet soil and develop root rot), and insufficient drainage (every herb pot needs drainage holes — no exceptions). Fix the light issue with an inexpensive grow light. Fix the watering issue by letting the top inch of soil dry between waterings. Fix the drainage issue by using pots with holes and emptying saucers after watering.
Do I need to label my herb garden?
If you grow more than five or six herbs, yes. Many herbs look similar in their early growth stages — oregano, marjoram, and thyme seedlings are nearly indistinguishable. Sage and mint can be confused when young. And if you grow multiple varieties of the same herb (sweet basil, Thai basil, lemon basil), labels are essential for identification. Even experienced gardeners benefit from markers that confirm what is growing where, especially after winter dormancy when perennials are just emerging and all you see are small green shoots.