Cherry tomatoes are the perfect container crop: compact, enormously productive, fast-ripening, and forgiving of the inconsistent watering and occasional neglect that comes with container gardening. A single large container of cherry tomatoes, positioned in a sunny spot, can produce hundreds of fruits over a summer growing season.
Choosing a Variety
Not all cherry tomato varieties are equal for container growing. Tumbling Tom (red and yellow), Hundreds and Thousands, Losetto, and Balcony are all bred for compact container growing and produce heavily without staking. Standard cherry tomatoes like Sweet Million and Gardeners Delight can be grown in containers but need a cane and more space. For hanging baskets, trailing varieties are specifically designed for vertical production with little support.
Container Size and Setup
A minimum of 20 litres per plant is needed; 30-40 litres produces more consistent yield. Use a good quality peat-free compost mixed with 15-20% perlite for drainage. Add a slow-release fertilizer (granular, worked into the top layer) at planting. Line the base of a plastic container with a piece of old landscape fabric to prevent compost washing through the drainage holes while maintaining drainage.
Planting and Positioning
Plant after the last frost date when nighttime temperatures are consistently above 10C. Position in full sun — 8+ hours per day is ideal. Containers warm up faster than beds, which gives a slight head start in spring. Turn the container 90 degrees weekly if growing against a wall to ensure even light exposure on all sides of the plant.
Watering
This is where most container cherry tomato growing fails. Containers dry out fast in summer — a 30-litre pot in full sun on a hot day may need watering twice. Check daily. Inconsistent watering causes fruit splitting and blossom end rot in cherry tomatoes, exactly as in larger varieties. A water reservoir tray under the pot is helpful but not a substitute for regular top-watering — reservoirs go stagnant and become a breeding ground for fungus gnats.
Feeding
Begin liquid feeding every 10-14 days once the first flowers appear. Use a tomato fertilizer (high in potassium — typically 4-6-8 or similar). Before flowers, a balanced fertilizer is better; switching to tomato feed at flowering shifts energy from foliage to fruiting. Continue feeding until the last fruits are set. Container tomatoes exhaust compost nutrients much faster than beds.
FAQ
How many cherry tomato plants per container?
One plant per container of at least 20 litres. Two plants in one container is possible in a 40+ litre pot but competition for water and nutrients makes management harder and yields per plant lower.
Do container cherry tomatoes need staking?
Compact and trailing varieties are self-supporting or train naturally over the container edge. Upright varieties like Gardeners Delight need a 60-90cm bamboo cane. Use soft twine to tie stems loosely to the cane as they grow.
How do I prevent fruit splitting?
Consistent watering is the only reliable prevention. Cherry tomatoes split when a dry period is followed by sudden heavy watering — the fruit swells rapidly faster than the skin can accommodate. Even daily watering is better than large, irregular drinks.
Can I grow cherry tomatoes in a grow bag?
Yes. Two plants per standard grow bag. Support with a proprietary grow bag frame or attach canes to a fence or wall behind. Grow bags dry out faster than rigid containers, so watering frequency increases. Feed more intensively than with containers — grow bag compost nutrients exhaust quickly.
When are cherry tomatoes ready to pick?
Pick when the fruit is fully coloured (red, yellow, orange, or black depending on variety), firm but slightly yielding to gentle pressure, and pulls easily from the truss without resistance. Cherry tomatoes continue ripening off the plant in warm conditions if you pick them slightly early.
See also: How to Prune Tomatoes for Maximum Yield and Best Vegetables to Grow in Containers.